But what exactly can the Photon Mono M5s do? Here we’ll look at all the best reasons to get excited about this new resin 3D printer.

Insane Detailing

The 10.1’’ LCD screen is in 12k, meaning the resolution and detailing you can achieve in even the tiniest models is improved dramatically over lesser machines. This resolution is a first on the consumer level, making it the highest resolution screen available and affordable for the average household.

Leveling-Free System

Another first that Anycubic boasts with the Photon Mono M5s is the leveling-free system, which automatically detects the necessary bed level and adjusts accordingly. Those of you who know how finicky manual leveling can be will be happy to hear about this feature, as it not only removes the need to adjust things yourself, but also decreases the risk of failed prints.

Print Faster Than Ever

The Anycubic Photon Mono M5s can handle both standard and high-speed resins, capable of reaching up to 105mm/s when using the latter. Achieving this kind of print speed will require some detail tweaking using the newly upgraded Anycubic Photon Workshop 3.1 to ensure the model is hollow, but that won’t detract from the exquisite detail.

Anycubic’s own high-speed resin is designed for not only faster printing speeds, but faster curing times too. This is excellent news for those of you who just can’t wait around for your prints, and especially good for small business owners who want a high turnover of products to sell online.

Device Detection

The Photon Mono M5s automatically detects and appraises any new device connected to it, ensuring that the software is compatible with the hardware before acting for smooth printing and seamless connectivity. Not only this, but it will adjust its hardware and settings accordingly if it can to make itself adaptable and work well with most smart devices.

If there are any problems that the machine can’t adapt to itself, you will get a notification regarding the nature of the issue on the Anycubic app, removing the guesswork and helping you fix any minor issues.

Automatic Resin Check

The Photon Mono M5s will check to make sure there is enough resin loaded into the vat before printing. If there isn’t enough resin to complete the model you’ve programmed for printing, the printer will notify you. This removes the potential heartbreak of seeing your project stop before it’s done, wasting both time and resin while you fetch more.

Failure Checks and Automatic Stopping

If the Photon Mono M5s detects any kind of fault or failure while printing, it will halt the process. This is not only much safer if the detected issue is a hardware one, but it will also save a lot of wasted resin by ensuring it doesn’t continue printing a doomed project.

Perfect for Beginners

The Intelligent Mode added to a recent update of the Photon Workshop adds to the resin detection system and automatically adjusts the level and print speeds depending on both the resin and the project for flawless printing achievable by beginners.

This is why Anycubic promises that you can print like a master, because the in-depth detection systems make it approachable for anyone, regardless of experience.

Price

The Anycubic Photon Mono M5s is available at a steal of a price, costing only $399 (or €399 for European consumers) if you order within 3 days of May 22^nd 2023. Ordering early also enters you into a draw to win free STL files so you can get printing right away!

The Anycubic Kobra 2 is one of the fastest upcoming FDM printers capable of up to 5x the speed of the average machine. It’s an exciting and affordable printer that any hobbyist or professional will love if speed is the main draw.

But it’s not just the fast printing that’s got us excited about the Anycubic Kobra 2 FDM printer, so here we’ll look at what makes the Kobra 2 a great printer for anyone looking to begin, or expand, their 3D printing adventures.

Fast Printing

As we’ve discussed, the Anycubic Kobra 2 is capable of incredible print speeds. The default is a whopping 150mm/s with an unbelievable max speed of 250mm/s. Those of you accustomed to FDM printing and its standard speeds will know just how much faster this is, beating the average of 60-80mm/s of most machines.

Upgraded Extrusion System

The unbelievable speed of the Kobra 2 is thanks to many updated features, not the least of which is its new dual-gear direct drive extrusion system. This system tightly grips the filament to make sure it doesn’t move around while printing each layer, adding to both the reliability and quality of the print by making sure the layers align as they should.

This system also heats the filament much faster than most FDM printers, adding to the print speed by getting the filament ready for extrusion much faster.

Impressive Cooling Fan

Of course, heating the filament faster will make it come out more quickly and hotter than usual, but fear not, Anycubic has also upgraded the cooling fan to spin at 700rpm. This cools the filament quickly and efficiently to ensure layer precision even at hotter temperatures and faster print speeds.

Improved Hardware

The Kobra 2’s frame is built to handle faster speeds. Unlike many FDM printers, which will vibrate and shake more at higher speed settings, the Kobra 2 has expertly placed alignments for its various parts to make sure they don’t rub together or create any unnecessary and damaging friction.

The axis placements ensure that they will move quickly to keep up with the higher speeds, making sure the layers are precise and the printer stays sturdy and stoic even when pushed to its limits.

Failure Sensor

In the event of a power outage or other unexpected failure, the Kobra 2 will automatically pause the project and will be ready to resume it as soon as the power comes back. It also has a filament sensor that will automatically halt printing if the filament runs out, preventing failed projects and allowing you to continue at your leisure.

Beginner Friendly and Intuitive Usability

The many features of the Kobra 2 may seem daunting to those of you who are new to 3D printing, but fear not. As well as being fast and affordable, the Kobra 2 was designed to be easy to set up and use regardless of previous experience.

Partially Pre-Assembled Frame

The kit comes semi-assembled and needs no soldering or any particular mechanical know-how to get going. Anycubic estimates a mere 10 minute assembly time for even the newest of newbies.

Easy Touchscreen

The touchscreen interface is easy to access and navigate even during printing. Beginners to 3D printing will love how intuitive it is and even veterans will find its accessibility refreshing when compared to more complex machines.

Magnetic Build Plate

The build plate is magnetic and spring-set. This, when combined with the rapid cooling of the upgraded fan, makes models very easy to remove when complete, which stays true even with notoriously sticky or awkward filaments.

Price

The Anycubic Kobra 2 will be available on May 20^th 2023 at the fantastically affordable price of $269 (or €299 on June 1^st for European customers). You can choose from a number of retailers including Amazon, eBay, Walmart, or Anycubic’s own official store.

If you want to buy an open-source 3D printer kit, you’ll now have dozens of options to choose from. I personally recommend the Creality Ender 3 V2, or V2 Neo, as a great low-cost kit, or if you have $1000, go for the Prusa.

In fact, open-source 3D printers launched the affordable 3D printer ranges we have now, starting from the RepRap movement more than a decade ago. 

And, unlike the original RepRaps, which were open-source FDM printers, there are now plenty of open-source resin printers, too. Therefore, I pick my favorites here based on real hands-on testing, with links to the 3D printer source files, and where to buy them.

Budget pick	Best under $1000	Premium pick
Creality Ender 3 V2 3D Printer	Prusa i3 MK3S+	BCN3D Sigma D25
4.1	4.5	4.7
$279.99	$749-999	$3995
Creality Store here	Buy as a kit here	Dynamism here
Amazon here	Buy pre-assembled here	MatterHackers here

Budget pick

Creality Ender 3 V2 3D Printer

4.1

$279.99

Creality Store here

Amazon here

Best under $1000

Prusa i3 MK3S+

4.5

$749-999

Buy as a kit here

Buy pre-assembled here

Premium pick

BCN3D Sigma D25

4.7

$3995

Dynamism here

MatterHackers here

What is an open-source 3D printer?

An open-source 3D printer has all of its hardware, firmware, and software designs available to the public. 

Without any IP holding people back from experimenting and improving open-source 3D printer designs, people are free to develop new features and publish their improvements for the community to enjoy.

Full Comparison:

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Best Desktop Open Source 3D Printers

Monoprice Mini Delta — Introductory open source printer

• Price: Check on Amazon here
• Maximum print volume: 110 x 110 x 120 mm
• Accuracy: up to 50 microns

The Monoprice Mini Delta is known for being one of the best budget 3D printers around, with great precision (up to 50 microns), speed (up to 150 mm/s) — and it’s open source!

An open source delta 3D printer, this allows for faster print speed, as with less weight on the print head, faster speeds and quicker acceleration can occur without overshooting. Higher print speeds can therefore be maintained without any loss of accuracy, making it one of the best fast 3D printers for the price.

Unlike many delta printers, the Monoprice Mini Delta comes fully assembled, so you can get printing in less than an hour from opening the box. The heated bed means you can print ABS and other trickier 3D filaments, and you can print via WiFi as well as by USB or SD card.

The sturdy metal frame improves part print quality by anchoring the printer down so external factors like vibrations don’t impact quality, and overall it’s a fantastic open source 3D printer for a low price.

Anet A8 – Low cost open source 3D printer

• Price: $180 — Available on Amazon here
• Size: 220 x 220 x 240 mm
• Minimum layer thickness: 100 microns

A low-cost open source 3D printer, the Anet A8 is a 3D printer kit that you will have to build yourself. It will take a few hours (up to six, actually), but once it’s up and running, not only will you be able to print magnificent 3D models, but you’ll also feel accomplished and appreciate it more having built it yourself.

Since it requires some tech know-how, this may not be the ideal 3D printer for beginners. But for those with enough experience to handle any issues and who can modify their open source 3D printer based on what they want to print, it’s fantastic for such a low price.

Once it’s up and running, it’s a fairly large 3D printer, able to print 220 x 220 x 240 mm parts without issue. It can print standard PLA and ABS, as well as wood-filled filaments and others including Nylon.

Overall, it’s reasonably reliable, accurate, and does everything you could possibly expect for such an affordable 3D printer. And with the open source firmware, you can unleash your creativity and change anything you want to improve.

Creality Ender 3 V2 (and V2 Neo) 

• Price: $280 / $300
• Build Volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm / 220 x 220 x 250 mm
• Print Speed: 180 mm per second / 180 mm per second
• Assembly Time: 30 – 60 minutes / 30 – 60 minutes
• Open Source Rating: Partially open source

The Ender 3 V2 is not technically open source itself – it’s the original Ender 3’s designs that are available. 

Still, with the V2 being nothing but an upgraded version of the original, you shouldn’t have any trouble when using the Ender 3’s designs for the V2.

Actually, the same goes for the Ender 3 V2 Neo, as it uses the same general frame style and Bowden extruder as the Ender 3 V2. We recently tested the Ender 3 V2 Neo at 3DSourced, so you can read that if you’re interested in taking a deeper dive.

You’ll notice there are some differences that make it less open source than the V2, but the Creality community’s own documentation and experimentation will help you along the way.

The Neo aside, grabbing an Ender 3 V2 is a great decision if you’re the tinkering type. It’s easy to modify and has decent specs, with a build volume of 220 x 220 x 250 mm and a max extruder temperature of 260°C. You can’t use any really fancy materials, but you can work with PLA, ABS, and PETG with no problem.

It has no auto bed leveling and no touchscreen, which could be some nice first upgrades.

Prusa i3 — best open source 3D printer under $1,000

• Price: $749 as a kit — Available on Prusa store here / $999 fully assembled — Available on Prusa store here
• Build volume: 250 x 210 x 200 mm
• Precision: 50 microns

Whereas some desktop 3D printer brands have turned their backs on open source, Prusa is still committed to the open source 3D printer philosophy, and you can access everything you need on their GitHub.

Known as one of the best 3D printer kits ever made, Prusa 3D printers have won boatloads of awards. Solid printing speed, accuracy, great reliability and compatibility with a variety of filaments (especially with the Multi-Material 2.0 upgrade) make it competitive with printers costing far more.

Designed to save you hassle and time, the Prusa i3 printers will save your current progress in the event of a power outage so you can resume where you left off, it will pause in the event of filament running out so the print doesn’t fail, and can even detect when the filament is clogging. Overall, it’s a fantastic open source 3D printer and we highly recommend it.

Professional Open Source 3D Printers

Prusa SL1S

• Price: $1,999
• Build Volume: 127 x 80 x 150 mm
• Print Speed: 1.4s per layer
• Assembly Time: 5-10 minutes (fully assembled)
• Open Source Rating: Partially open source

The original Prusa SL1, despite being completely open source, is no longer available for purchase, having been superseded by the Prusa SL1S. We expect that Prusa will release the files of the SL1S soon however, as they always do.

But for now, the SL1S and SL1 are in open-source limbo where only the out-of-production earlier version’s files are currently available on GitHub. Still, we’ll cover the SL1S here since it will be open source in the future, and any shared design aspects are open source.

The SL1S is an expensive but incredibly fast open-source SLA printer. It has a 1.4-second exposure time per layer, meaning it can print a 150mm tall object in just three hours.

The SL1S has a decent LCD resolution of 2560 x 1620p and a 5.96” screen, allowing it to print even the smallest miniatures with good detail. It’s an interesting combination of innovative design choices – like a motorized tilting bed that offers faster and more stable printing – and non-proprietary tech like its resin tank and FEP films.

Truly, it’s a typical Prusa open-source printer through and through.

BCN3D Sigma D25

• Price: $3,995 — Available on Dynamism Store here / Available on Matterhackers here
• Build volume: 420 x 300 x 200 mm

Barcelona, Spain-based BCN3D remain committed to open source 3D printing since their inception in 2012. All their printers have open source 3D printer files for firmware, process, software, and more published on the BCN3D GitHub.

BCN3D printers are known for their reliability, and the Sigma D25, their newest printer, is no different. Featuring their signature IDEX dual extruder system which can print in two special modes, Mirror and Duplication, each extruder can function separately, as either a multi color 3D printer, or for printing with a soluble filament for supports that can be easily removed.

Whereas the Sigmax R19 has a completely closed, enclosed build chamber, the Sigma D25 is semi-open. It’s easy to use, reliable, durable with its high-quality stainless steel frame, and prints very consistently and accurately at up to 50-micron layer heights on E3D hot ends. D25 models now have access to WiFi 3D printing, and can automatically install new firmware updates to keep your printer up to date.

Any keen makers or small businesses looking to print fun projects or accurate plastic prototypes, that is also open source, may find the Sigma D25 the perfect 3D printer for you.

Ultimaker 3 / S3

• Price: $4,080 — Available on Dynamism Store here / Available on Matterhackers here
• Build volume: 215 x 215 x 210 mm

12 months after the Ultimaker 3’s release, the Dutch company released the hardware source files for both the Ultimaker 3 and Ultimaker 3 Extended here. This was no surprise; Ultimaker had previously released the files to other printers including the Ultimaker 2 Go, leading to innovation breakthroughs such as the Olsson Block. Ultimaker also develops Cura, the popular and open source 3D slicer.

Known as one of the best 3D printers of its generation, the Ultimaker 3 is incredibly accurate and widely adopted for rapid prototyping precise plastic parts. It comes fully assembled and almost ready to print; you can get it all started within just a few minutes.

It works with Ultimaker’s open source 3D printer software, Cura, and features a built-in camera for monitoring your print’s progress remotely. It’s not the fastest, but prints with flawless accuracy for an FDM 3D printer, and the dual extruder also adds to its offering.

Ultimaker has not yet (as of August 2021) released any source files for the Ultimaker S5 or S3, but some of the parts are near identical to the Ultimaker 3.

List of other open source 3D printers (with purchase links):

• BCN3D Epsilon
• Lulzbot Mini
• Taz Pro
• BigFDM
• Creatable 3D
• Hydra Research Nautilus

There are also a range of other open source CNC machines beyond 3D printers, ranging from the MPCNC (mostly printed CNC), to the original ShapeOko designs (before they became closed source with the Shapeoko 3 and 4). If you’re looking for a 3D printer that can also CNC and laser cut, we also have an article on the best all-in-one 3D printers.

Where can you download open source 3D printer designs?

Depending on the company, open-source 3D printer designs are usually stored on GitHub, the RepRap wiki, or even Google Drive. You can find links to the source files on the company’s website in some cases, too.

• The Prusa i3’s designs can be found on GitHub and in Prusa Research’s guide
• The Ultimaker 3’s designs can be found on GitHub
• The Anet A8’s designs can be found in Anet’s Google Drive
• The Creality CR-10’s designs can be found on GitHub
• The Creality Ender 3’s designs can be found on GitHub
• The Snappy 3’s designs can be found on GitHub through the RepRap Wiki

How open source can improve 3D printers: Olsson Block

By letting anyone build on the design, features, or firmware of a 3D printer, new developments can occur beyond what the manufacturer builds. 

An example of this is the development of the Olsson Block by Anders Olsson.

Anders used his experience as a research engineer to experiment with an open-source Ultimaker 3D printer, attempting to make printing boron carbide possible. 

He succeeded– but at the cost of the nozzle, which was worn away after just one print.

So, Anders designed a block (now dubbed the Olsson Block) that allows for quick-swapping nozzles. The block was welcomed with open arms by the Ultimaker community, who recognized its value for a variety of applications.

Olsson Blocks are now used by thousands of 3D printers to reduce nozzle switching time. Without Ultimaker’s decision to make their printers open source, this important invention may not have been developed.

Open Source vs Closed Source 3D Printers

Makerbot, Printrbot, Lulzbot (by Aleph Objects), Ultimaker, BCN3D and several other 3D printer companies were formed championing the open source 3D printer movement.

However, some have since struggled.

Printrbot closed down in July 2018 citing low sales, while Lulzbot laid off the majority of their staff in October 2019, facing closure before they were rescued and bought out.

Makerbot, perhaps the most successful 3D printer company to emerge from the DIY 3D printer revolution, famously turned their back on the open source philosophy, and now their 3D printers are closed source and IP-protected. The company was acquired for $400M by Stratasys.

However, some open-source 3D printer companies continue to show strong growth and prove that open source is not only well-loved, but also a profitable strategy.

BCN3D continue to produce high-quality printers, including the Sigma D25 and Epsilon, while Ultimaker have grown to become one of the most respected 3D printer companies in the world. Not to mention Prusa, who stayed committed to open-source 3D printing while becoming one of the top-performing 3D printer manufacturers.

FAQs

Other articles you may be interested in:

• How to get a free 3D printer
• Open source CAD software

From pre-made choices to DIY options you can build for basically free, the best Ender 3 enclosures offer something for everyone

The choice I’d recommend for 80% of folks is the official Creality Ender 3 Enclosure.

It’s easy to assemble, with a good-sized viewing window. It’s particularly good at printing heat-sensitive materials – and is more affordable than you’d expect

If your priority is 360-degree visibility, you should check out the 3D UpFitters Ender 3 Enclosure. it’s a little more complicated to assemble, but it’s a great pick for more detailed projects where you need a clearer view.

We’ll highlight the best among these popular Ender 3 add-ons, and also provide a few top Ender 3 enclosure buying tips to keep in mind.

Buyable Ender 3 Enclosures

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Official Creality Ender 3 Enclosure

• Price: Check price at Creality store / Check here on Amazon
• Assembly: Easy-to-assemble iron pipe/three-way connector frame
• Compatibility: Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Max, Ender 3 Neo, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 3 Max Neo, Ender 3 S1, Ender 3 S1 Pro, Ender 3 S1 Plus
• Printer Access: Large front door with zip
• Print Visibility: See-through front screen with zip, velcroed side and top opening

Although Creality opted not to equip the Ender 3 with an enclosure, the company offers its very own official-vetted enclosure for the Ender 3 in all its incarnations.

The enclosure’s biggest strength is that it’s designed specifically for the Ender 3, so no faffing around checking dimensions – the Ender 3 just fits, with room to spare.

It also offers sufficient top space to squeeze in a spool of 1kg filament.

With toolless, easy assembly, the official Creality enclosure consists of a rigid iron pipe frame held together by three-way connectors, on top of which sits a heat-containing cover to prevent drafts.

The inner layer is made of an aluminum film, while a flame-retardant fabric coats the outer layer.

The official Creality Ender 3 enclosure can maintain temperatures far better, ideal for printing with ABS, ASA, PC, and other heat-sensitive materials. Creality says the enclosure helps muffle printing sounds and has also thrown in a handy side-mounted tool pouch.

A zipped window that runs almost the front and top of the enclosure offers easy access to the printer and a good-sized viewing window.

Smaller right side and top openings with velcro covers grant two additional angles to access the printer without removing the entire enclosure.

3D UpFitters Ender 3 Enclosure

• Price: Starting at $200.00
• Assembly: Fairly involved, comes with high-quality, well-guided assembly instructions
• Compatibility: Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Max, Ender 3 Neo, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 3 Max Neo, Ender 3 S1, Ender 3 S1 Pro, Ender 3 S1 Plus
• Printer Access: Hinged front door with magnetic latch and left-side door
• Print Visibility: Acrylic see-through panels on all sides

If you’re looking for a sturdier alternative to Creality’s tent-style enclosure above, 3D UpFitters’ Ender 3 kit is a solid option.

The company specializes in 3D printer enclosures and levies that expertise to offer some of the best options on the market.

The enclosure is made of high-quality acrylic panels held together by ABS connector brackets. This means complete visibility of the printing process from all angles and the ability to maintain an internal temperature above 30°C.

A hinged front door with magnetic latches and a side-mounted two-panel swing door means easy access to the printer.

The kit even comes with a custom mount and extender cable to position the Ender 3’s power supply outside the enclosure.

It also features cable routing holes to position the printer’s display outside the enclosure for easy print control. 3D UpFitters’ Ender 3 enclosure starts at around $200.00.

The company offers a range of add-ons, including a carbon air filter, temperature gauge, spool holder, vent system with fan/dryer hose adapter, interior LEDs, etc.

You can shave off a few dollars by opting to print the connectors yourself using ABS, something the company facilitates by providing STL files.

Assembly is reasonably involved and takes some time, but 3D UpFitters’ high-quality instructions are good enough for those usually daunted by DIY assembly to follow.

Innovator 3D Printer Enclosure

• Price: Starting at $165
• Assembly: Fairly complex, Fairly involved, comes with high-quality, well-guided assembly instructions and videos
• Compatibility: Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Max, Ender 3 Neo, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 3 Max Neo, Ender 3 S1, Ender 3 S1 Pro, Ender 3 S1 Plus
• Printer Access: Hinged front door
• Print Visibility: See-through acrylic front and side panels

If you’re looking for an enclosure that ships with all the bells and whistles with the price tag to match, then look no further than Innovator 3D Printer Enclosure. 

Designed from the ground up to create a sealed, heat-retaining cocoon for your Ender 3 to thrive in, the Innovator 3D Printer Enclosure is pieced together using large sheets of sturdy metal, see-through acrylic panels, and heavy-duty hardware.

It’s designed to maintain ideal printing temperatures, and also ships with a built-in 2-phase HEPA/activated carbon filtration system to clean air contaminated by fumes and particles (VOCs), partially useful if you’re working with ABS and other filaments that give off more fumes.

The enclosure also has its own internal control panel, and there’s also a smart heater with the ability to set a desired temperature – and even an option to add internal lighting.

It’s a more involved setup than an enclosure tet, though there’s good instructions to make sure it isn’t too taxing for you. On my Ender 3 V2 Neo, I’d say it’s overkill, but if I’m working on my Ender 3 S1 Pro, and want to print tougher filaments, I’d prefer something like this. 

The Innovator 3D Printer Enclosure comes in two sizes, with the larger option big enough to house even the largest Ender 3 models like the Ender 3 Max and Ender 3 Max Neo.

Wham Bam HotBox V2 Enclosure

• Price: Starting at $120.00
• Assembly: Pre-assembled, effortless two-minute set-up
• Compatibility: Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 3 Neo
• Printer Access: Large zipped front/top door
• Print Visibility: See-through front panel

Wham Bam’s HotBox V2 enclosure is a solid option if you want to transform the Ender 3 into an ABS-ready printer with as little hassle as possible.

It comes fully assembled with a setup involving no more than two zippers.

The HotBox V2 is made up of a semi-rigid, lightweight polymer honeycomb insulating structure with a high-grade Nylon 600D outer layer and metallic heat-containing internal lining.

These materials keep out drafts and maintain a steady internal temperature.

A large front-facing velcro panel allows you to view and access the printer, while dual side-mounted zippers see the front and cover open up completely for even easier access to the printer.

There are metal-lined filament passages mounted throughout, with plugs to seal them when not in use.

Cable passages and velcro retainers feature on all sides, along with an air vent port, and even an in-built thermometer for monitoring. The top panel features a velcro panel for the Ender 3’s spool holder to sit outside the enclosure.

Other notable features include loops for a pair of LED light bars on the front panel should you fancy the upgrade along with a useful tool pouch on the enclosure’s side.

It folds up flat for easy transportation and storage.

DIY Ender 3 Enclosures

Photography Studio Tent

• Price: Up to $50
• Assembly: None required, pop-up tent
• Compatibility: Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Max, Ender 3 Neo, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 3 Max Neo, Ender 3 S1, Ender 3 S1 Pro
• Printer Access: Zipper door or flap
• Print Visibility: Poor, tent is designed to reflect light so isn’t see-through

A repurposed photography studio tent offers a solid enclosure option, but one that is easy to set up and won’t break the bank. 

Tents are widely available in a range of sizes to fit all Ender 3 models – just make sure you measure up before buying. If you can’t find one with enough height, consider mounting the spool outside of the tent

The tents are typically made of flame-retardant plastic sheets (to cater for photography lights placed inside) that do a reasonably good job of containing heat, offering the Ender 3 a cozy environment to print filaments like ABS. It’s not the most insulative, but for those on a budget, it’s more than sufficient for most print projects.

The major downside of a tent is that the plastic sheets are designed to reflect heat and have a murky white finish. As a consequence, photography tents offer no visibility of the printer, but do come with a zipper door or flap that makes accessing it easier. 

The material is also easy to make holes in to feed in cables or filament, giving you more flexibility. And, putting it together takes no effort at all – they ship preassembled, and all you need to do is place the Ender 3 inside.

Exercise and Kids Mats

• Price: $20.00-$30.00
• Assembly: Very easy, interlocking puzzle teeth
• Compatibility: Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 3 Neo
• Printer Access: Easily remove one of the mats to access the printer
• Print Visibility: Poor

Although not the first thing that comes to mind, foam exercise and kid’s play mats constitute a viable DIY option for an Ender 3 enclosure.

In particular, mats that have interlocking puzzle teeth on the sides can be combined easily and quickly to create a cube large enough to house an Ender 3.

No need for tools or screws – simply push them together.

While their material (usually ethylene vinyl acetate) may not be known for its insulative properties, and the imprecise, toothy cuts may be prone to letting through small drafts, these mats prove surprisingly competent at maintaining a steady temperature.

Due to manufacturers having to stick to rigid standards, they are generally non-flammable.

They are also comparatively cheap when stacked up against pre-made enclosures. Expect to pay as little as $20.00 to $30.00 for the six panels required for a six-sided cube enclosure.

There are, of course, downsides.

Unless you carve out an opening and install an acrylic panel, there’s no way to monitor a print without removing one of the mats. Depending on the mat’s thickness, fitting in an opening for the filament spool might be troublesome, too.

IKEA LACK Table

• Price: $13.00 IKEA LACK table, $60.00 panel kit, cost of filament to 3D print brackets
• Assembly: Complex
• Compatibility: Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 3 Neo
• Printer Access: Hinged front door
• Print Visibility: Excellent, see-through front, back, and side panels

A favorite among seasoned makers, the IKEA LACK table enclosure is a classic DIY option.

Though not initially conceived for the Ender 3, it works a treat to transform any small-ish open-design printer into a machine capable of handling even the most temperamental filament types.

The basic idea is to take a cheap, sturdy, and readily available IKEA LACK side table, then mount acrylic panels on the front, back, and sides with 3D printed brackets to create a toasty thermal environment for ABS, Nylon, PC, and more to thrive.

You won’t need custom-cut acrylic panels as you can buy kits from Amazon and the like.

These include cut-to-size acrylic panels with cabling holes, magnets, and hardware. STL files for the 3D printed parts are also available on sites like Thingiverse.

Visibility is unsurprisingly excellent, with views of the printer from the front, back, and sides.

Kits also generally include a hinged door or a removable front panel for printer access.

You can even stack multiple LACK tables to create storage space or fashion and attach all manner of creative add-ons like lights, a thermometer, or an external spool holder to the side table’s wooden frame.

Whatever way you look at it, this is a DIY project, so assembly is very much hands-on with a good dose of problem-solving if you don’t go down the kit route – one for the experienced DIYers or motivated beginners out there.

Wood Enclosure

• Price: $100.00-$200.00 depending on the cost of wood
• Assembly: Medium-hard difficulty
• Compatibility: Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Max, Ender 3 Neo, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 3 Max Neo, Ender 3 S1, Ender 3 S1 Pro, Ender 3 S1 Plus
• Printer Access: Optional hinged front door or removable panel
• Print Visibility: Potentially excellent if using four acrylic panels

Similar to the IKEA LACK build, a wooden enclosure is a viable alternative to a pre-made option, especially if you’re good with your hands and have some woodworking experience.

Generally, those who’ve gone down this route build a wood frame and then attach wood panels and one acrylic panel on the front for visibility to create an enclosed space for the Ender 3.

Assembly can vary in complexity depending on your plans.

Wood is one of the more workable materials, but you need the right tools – a circular saw, drill, etc. The lack of precise guides means you’ll need to measure the correct dimensions yourself.

The whole project could cost next to nothing if you can gather up any spare wood lying around and 3D print the brackets for the acrylic panels.

Otherwise, expect to pay anywhere from $100.00 to $200.00, depending on the cost of wood in your area.

Plastic Sheets and PVC Frame

• Price: $20-$40
• Assembly: Medium complexity
• Compatibility: Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Max, Ender 3 Neo, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 3 Max Neo, Ender 3 S1, Ender 3 S1 Pro, Ender 3 S1 Plus
• Printer Access: Door cut into sheet with velcro holds or removable sheet
• Print Visibility: Poor, unless you use see-through material

It’s possible to piece together an inexpensive, rudimentary Ender 3 enclosure with no more than a sheet of plastic, a basic frame made of PVC, for example, and strong adhesive like duct tape.

The process is pretty intuitive.

It involves assembling a frame, draping the sheet over and holding it down with tape. The printer then sits underneath, benefiting from the right controlled thermal environment to handle heat-sensitive filament.

In terms of equipment, we recommend any non-flammable and heat-resistant plastic sheet; the thicker, the better, as extra width generally pumps up the insulative properties.

Depending on your visibility preference, you may also want to go for see-through sheets.

As for the frame, a popular option is PVC, as it can be combined without tools, relying instead on friction to hold it together. This makes it easier to build and disassemble for transportation or storage.

Another popular alternative is to 3D print the frame yourself, further reducing costs.

Assembly shouldn’t be too taxing but could vary depending on the frame material you go for.

For printer access, you can either remove a section of the sheet as needed or cut out a door and attach velcro dots to the frame to keep it closed during printing.

Advantages of an Enclosure for Your Ender 3

Temperature Control

An enclosure creates a stable thermal environment.

Without an enclosure, the Ender 3 is subject to ambient temperature fluctuation caused by natural shifts and factors like drafts.

An enclosure allows for a consistent environment, essential if you need consistent and reliable results when reproducing the same model and part.

Fumes, Odors, Noise Reduction

An Ender 3 enclosure contains the fumes created when melting certain filament types.

These fumes can have hazardous consequences when breathed in. Similarly, many heat-sensitive filament types produce unpleasant odors, which an enclosure can help reduce, which is useful if you can’t set up the printer in a well-ventilated area.

A further benefit is noise reduction. An enclosure can help muffle stepper motor and fan noise.

Safety

An enclosure offers a protective cocoon around the Ender 3 to shield it from accidental knocks and bumps, and also protect users, children, and others from injuring themselves on the hot nozzle or heated bed.

Storage

An enclosure protects a printer from dust and debris when not in use, extending its lifespan and minimizing the need for regular cleaning.

Buyer’s Guide – Things to Consider When Choosing an Enclosure For Your Creality Ender 3

The Differences in Enclosing Each Ender 3 Printer

While they’re all based on the same core frame, components, and design, some Ender 3s have a different-sized footprint. So, it’s super important to buy an enclosure large enough to house your specific Ender 3 model.

The Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Pro, and Ender 3 Neo are the same as the original Ender 3, but some are larger, like the Ender 3 Max, Ender 3 S1 Plus and S1 Pro, Ender 3 Max and Max Neo.

Here are their dimensions for easy reference:

Material Choice and Potential Issues

Pay close attention to the properties of the material used to make an enclosure.

Non-flammable and heat-resistant materials are a must-have as they drastically reduce the potential for fires. You’ll also want to consider their insulative properties, favoring those that naturally trap heat, such as acrylic.

For parts like brackets that you can 3D print yourself, we suggest avoiding PLA due to its low melting point in favor of ABS, which can withstand the higher temperatures created by an enclosure.

Exhaust Stem

Although not essential, you may want to consider an enclosure, whether DIY or pre-made, fitted with a vent/exhaust and air filtration system.

These can help filter out toxic fumes and funnel hot air away from the Ender 3’s more sensitive components, such as the power supply and other electronic parts.

Effects of Temperature of the Ender 3’s Hardware

Although trapping in heat does wonders for 3D printing ABS and other filaments, it can wreak havoc on the Ender 3’s components.

In particular, too much heat can affect the lifespan and performance of electronic parts such as the power supply, display, and mainboard.

We recommend enclosures that offer well-placed vents to move air away from these components like on the 3D UpFitters enclosure or allow you to house them outside the enclosure or away from the heat sources (nozzle and bed).

Assembly and Storage

Consider how easy an enclosure is to assemble and disassemble, especially if you don’t plan on having a permanent setup.

For example, an IKEA LACK Table enclosure is more or less impossible to disassemble quickly. On the other hand, a tent-style option like the HotBox V2 folds away for storage in seconds.

FAQs

If you enjoyed this article, check out our other Ender 3 upgrade guides to learn more:

• Ender 3 Laser Engraver & Cutter Upgrades Reviewed for V2/Pro Models
• Dual Extruder Upgrades for Creality Ender 3: Pro, V2, and S1
• Top Ender 3 Direct Drive Upgrades for 2023: V2 and Pro
• Best Ender 3 Extension Kit Upgrades
• The Best Auto Bed Leveling Upgrades for Ender 3
• Comprehensive Guide to Every Type of Ender 3 Fan Upgrades
• Best Hot End Upgrades for Ender 3 Pro/V2

I’ve been there – wispy plastic residue ruining otherwise perfectly good prints.

In short, it all comes down to dialing in the best Ender 3 retraction settings.

This guide will cover everything I’ve learned about this all too common phenomenon – how to set the perfect Ender 3 retraction settings, along with a few housekeeping tricks I use to prevent stringing.

You’re likely here for specific slicer settings, so I’ll provide those, too. Let’s jump in – here’s how to reduce stringing with the best Ender 3 Retraction Settings.

What Causes Stringing?

First, what causes stringing? 

Stringing is the name given to the wispy, cobweb-like strands of filament that trail behind the nozzle when it shifts from one part of a print to another.

It also pops up in gaps (or open air) between two separate vertical parts of a print or any area where no active printing (or deposition) happens.

It’s a byproduct of the ever-present, natural pressure in the filament path continuously pushing plastic through the hot end.

In other words, although the extruder’s gears are no longer actively feeding filament, tiny traces of melted plastic leak out of the nozzle.

Stringing happens when the flow of molten plastic isn’t controlled by the usual deposition of plastic onto a pre-existing layer.

As stringing is linked to the behavior of melted plastic, filaments that print at higher temperatures are more susceptible.

Filaments like PETG are well-known for stringing for this reason, but the most popular Ender 3 filaments, PLA and ABS, are by no means immune to the problem.

Best Retraction Settings For The Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, and Ender 3 V2

Now that we understand what each Ender 3 retraction setting does, here’s my optimal retraction settings:

• Retraction Distance: 5 mm
• Retraction Speed: 25 mm/s to 50 mm/s
• Retraction Extra Prime Amount: 0 mm/s
• Retraction Minimum Travel: 1.5 mm
• Maximum Retraction Count: 10
• Minimum Extrusion Distance Window: 10 mm
• Limit Support Retractions: Toggled On
• Combing Mode: Within Infill

These work not just on the classic Ender 3 but also as solid Ender 3 V2 and Ender 3 Pro retraction settings — though you can still tweak these based on the results you want.

With these dialed in, it’s crucial to perform an Ender 3 retraction test, such as this one, and adjust the Ender 3 retraction settings as needed. 

You’ll also find a selection of calibration shapes for testing in the Cura marketplace. This video offers a guide on how to get the best out of these types of tests.

Ender 3 V2 Neo Retraction Settings

Though the Ender 3 V2 Neo is based on the V2, it benefits from slightly tweaked retraction settings to remove stringing on the Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, and Ender 3 V2.

• Retraction Distance: 6.5 mm
• Retraction Speed: 45 mm/s

As always, your results with these settings may vary depending on filament type and print speed, but they’re a solid starting point.

I don’t recommend lowering the retraction settings below 5 mm as this makes stringing worse in my experience. You can also read my full test of the Ender 3 V2 Neo.

Ender 3 S1 Retraction Settings

As the Ender 3 S1 features a direct drive extruder, the filament path is much shorter, meaning you can get away with a shorter retraction distance.

• Retraction Distance: 0.8 mm
• Retraction Speed: 35 to 45 mm/s

These are also Ender 3 direct drive settings applicable to any Bowden Ender 3s you’ve upgraded to a direct drive extruder.

Ender 3 S1 Pro Retraction Settings

As the Ender 3 S1 Pro is essentially a bulkier version of the Ender 3 S1, the retraction differences don’t differ much between them.

However, the Ender 3 S1 Pro tends to combat stringing more effectively with a slightly higher retraction speed.

• Retraction Distance: 0.8 mm
• Retraction Speed: 50 mm/s

You may want to slightly drop the retraction speed – to somewhere around 0.6 mm – if this doesn’t produce any substantial stringing, but I don’t recommend reducing the speed below 50 mm/s. You can read more in my full test and review of the Ender 3 S1 Pro.

At lower speeds, stringing intensifies and becomes more annoying to deal with. Some other users online have also found success with speeds up to 60 mm/s, so don’t hesitate to raise it a few millimeters if you’re still seeing stringing.

Another useful tip that affects stringing, but only applies to PLA, is to lower the nozzle temperature to around 195°C – rather than the 200-210°C typically recommended by filament manufacturers. This very slightly reduces how fast the filament melts, but enough to substantially reduce stringing, especially when paired with my recommended retraction settings.

How the Right Ender 3 Retraction Settings Stop Stringing

Retraction Settings

Fortunately, there are several ways to reduce or eliminate stringing, the most effective of which is tuning the retraction settings for the Ender 3 in your slicing software.

Retraction is a mechanism built into the extruder that retracts the filament by a short distance.

Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, and Ender 3 V2 retraction settings determine when and by how much to pull back the plastic into the nozzle when traveling between points or over a gap. Doing so relieves the built-up pressure in the nozzle and prevents the oozing that leads to stringing.

If you’ve ever glanced at slicer retraction slicing, you’ll know there are quite a few tweakable options. We’ll cover what each one does below. 

For clarity and to serve as many readers as possible, we’ll focus on Ender 3 Cura retraction settings, given it’s the most popular 3D printing slicer. Note that other slicers feature variations on the names of these settings, but they serve the same function.

Enable Retraction

This setting tells the printer to use its retraction mechanism. Though this setting is typically ticked on by default, it’s worth double-checking. All the settings below are redundant without retraction enabled.

Retraction Distance

Retraction distance determines the length of filament pulled back by the extruder for each retraction move (specifically, how much the filament travels within the hot end), but also how much filament is extruded back through the hot end after the retraction move. 

Retraction distance is arguably the most important setting along with speed. It’s a crucial factor in reducing instances of Ender 3 stringing.

As with most aspects of 3D printing, there’s a balance to strike when it comes to tuning retraction settings for the Ender 3.

A short retraction distance won’t be enough to prevent stringing, but you run the risk of filament not reaching the nozzle when needed if you dial in a distance that’s too large. Additionally, retracting too far can cause molten plastic to solidify and clog the hot end.

Retracting the filament too far can also cause what’s known as filament grinding, an issue caused when the extruder gears gnaw away at the filament as it makes repeated passes over the same area. 

Degraded filament has a tougher time making its way through the hot end to the nozzle, which can ruin prints. Parts requiring lots of retraction moves in quick succession are especially prone to filament grinding.

Bowden systems, such as those found on the Ender 3, Ender Pro, and Ender 3 V2, typically need a longer retraction distance due to the larger gap between the extruder and print head assembly. 

For the Ender 3 S1 and Ender 3 S1 Pro, you can get away with a lower distance because these printers have direct drive extruders, so there’s a shorter filament path.

Retraction Speed

Retraction speed signals how fast the extruder drive gear pulls filament back for every retraction move.

It’s directly related to retraction distance: how fast the defined length of filament travels when retracted. Higher speeds reduce stringing because the filament is whipped up into the nozzle before stringing can occur.

Much like retraction distance, it’s not a case of simply cranking up the retraction speed to solve all your stringing woes.

There’s a balance between reducing stringing with a nippy retraction and setting it so high that it affects the consistency and quality of subsequent printed layers.

Filament grinding is a concern at higher retraction speeds, so tread carefully here to avoid degrading your filament. Another common issue sees the solid filament located higher up in the hot end separate from the molten portion lower down, which can lead to clogs and jams.

Retraction Extra Prime Amount

Following a retraction move, the retraction extra prime amount settings determine how much additional filament is primed to compensate for potential oozing during a travel move. It helps top up the nozzle with the filament when the printer returns to printing.

In most cases, the retraction extra prime amount is best left at its default settings of 0 as it tends to leave blemishes and blobs on your prints when the retraction speed and distance are set correctly.

Retraction Minimum Travel

Retraction minimum travel sets a minimum distance of travel threshold beyond which retraction is triggered, and the filament is then pulled away from the nozzle.

The idea here is to limit the number of unwanted retractions in quick succession over a small area. Set too low, and when combined with aggressive retraction speed/distance settings, it can exacerbate grinding and damage your filament.

Maximum Retraction Count

Maximum Retraction Count sets a maximum cap on the number of retraction moves within a set length of filament defined by the minimum extrusion distance window (more on that just below).

The setting is designed to protect the filament from repeated gear pressure on the same portion of filament, which can lead to grinding problems.

Minimum Extrusion Distance Window

Minimum Extrusion Distance Window determines the length of filament the maximum retraction count setting applies to.

Again, the core function of this setting is to avoid damaging your filament through repeated and unnecessary extruder pushing and pulling.

Limit Support Retractions

Here you can toggle whether the retraction mechanism and all the other retraction settings apply when traveling between or within support structures.

Turning it on can cause stringing between support portions of a print but can drastically reduce the overall print time. As you’ll remove stringy supports once a print finishes, the overall quality of your part isn’t affected.

Combing Mode

This setting gives you several options to signal how the printer should behave when traveling from one portion of a print to another.

Generally, this keeps the nozzle within previously printed areas. The aim is to keep retraction moves to a minimum and shorten print times. The setting ensures any stringing occurs within the limits of your print and not on the outer surface or walls at a nominal cost to travel times.

You’ll find four combing mode options:

• Off – The printer will retract for every travel move and do so in a straight line to the next point.
• All – The printer will ensure all travel moves occur within already printed areas.
• No in Skin – The printer avoids skin/surface areas when traveling.
• Within Infill – The printer keeps the nozzle within infills when traveling.

Other Slicer Settings That Can Help Prevent Stringing

Print Temperature

To understand the way hot end temperature can lead to stringing, think of what happens when you feed filament into the extruder before a print.

The printer bumps the temperature way up, which causes the filament to flow uncontrollably out of the nozzle, creating a mound of plastic spaghetti on your print bed.

This is the pressure built up in the filament path (caused by the extruder gears pushing and the hot end liquifying the plastic) releasing through the only available opening, the nozzle.

It’s vital to have the correct hot end temperature for your filament type as recommended by the manufacturer to keep this pressure in check.

Set too high, this leads to over-extrusion manifested as stringing during travel moves and blemishes when printing, or retraction moves stretching rather than pulling the filament, negating the benefit of retraction.

By dialing down the temperature, you are effectively limiting the flow of filament and, by extension, oozing.

Here are the general ranges for each filament compatible with the Ender 3.

• PLA – 190°C to 230°C
• ABS – 210°C to 250°C
• TPU – 210°C to 230°C
• PETG – 220°C to 250°C

We recommend lowering the temperature in small increments. Doing so along with dialed Ender 3 retraction should help prevent stringing issues.

Travel Speed

Though not as impactful as retraction and temperature settings, travel speed can help prevent stringing.

By increasing the travel speed, you’re ensuring the nozzle shifts from printed area to printed area faster, limiting the window for oozing.

As always, balance is essential.

Pushing the travel speed too high can open the door to a host of other problems linked to print quality and under extrusion. Start with 150 mm/s and adjust upwards as needed, but avoid exceeding 200 mm/s.

Other Ways To Stop Stringing

Buy Quality Filament

However tempting it may be to save money by buying cheap filament, we recommend spending a little more on a proven, quality brand.

Poor quality additives and a shoddy manufacturing process can exacerbate stringing. Be sure to consult our guide to the best Ender 3 filament for our top recommended brands.

Proper Filament Storage

Good quality filament is one thing, but you must also store it correctly to keep it moisture-free. When water seeps into the filament, it can accentuate the oozing that leads to stringing.

As the moisture heats up, it releases extra pressure, which, when combined with the pressure caused by the extruder gear and hot end temperature, can push unwanted filament through the nozzle during travel moves. 

Check out our guide to storing filament the right way for more information.

Replace The PTFE tubing

If you’ve dialed in the proper settings, bought quality filament, and kept it dry, but stringing persists, then the problem is likely linked to the PTFE tubing degrading.

Through repeated exposure to high temperatures at the point where it meets the hot end, the PTFE tubing’s lubrication degrades over time, which can affect the efficiency of retraction.

Replacing or cutting back the Bowden tubing is one of the easiest Ender 3 upgrades. Check out our guide to best Ender 3 upgrades for more information.

Alternatively, you can eliminate the problem by upgrading your Ender 3 to a direct drive extruder setup, which doesn’t have Bowden tubing. Check the link just above for more details.

Maintain and Clean The Nozzle

Residual build-up on the nozzle is a natural part of 3D printing, especially if you’re a heavy user.

If left unchecked, this build-up can lead to stringing because it affects extrusion and can stick to fresh filament flowing from the nozzle.

Regularly wiping the nozzle with a wire brush or removing the part entirely for a thorough clean should eliminate the problem.

FAQs

If you enjoyed this article, check our other guides to learn more:

• Ender 3 Print Speed Preferences (Max for V2 & S1)
• 4 Methods to Fix PETG Stringing (Fixes 90% of Issues)
• Pillowing, Stringing, and Layer Splitting – Three of the Worst 3D Printer Issues Solved

Getting a 3D printer is exciting, especially if it’s your first one. But before you plug it in and get going (but after you’ve built it if you’ve bought a 3D printer kit ?), there are a few things to consider when it comes to 3D printer stands and tables.

Bigger 3D printers require more space to fit them, while different types of 3D printers or projects will require different things like filaments, paints, or tools that should be kept handy. 3D printers are often at least 10kg, with most desktop 3D printers sitting at between the 13-15kg mark. For more professional 3D printers, expect them to be even heavier!

When deciding on your desk for your 3D printer, you’ll need to keep a few things in mind. Most 3D printers will need to be in well-ventilated areas for maximum safety, sometimes a 3D printer enclosure can work if you take any potential fumes into account.

There’s also the matter of easy access to peripherals. If you’re using an FDM printer, you’ll probably want easy access to your filaments, so your 3D printer table should include holders or at least enough space for a filament storage box.

While a standard workbench or desk will normally do, you’re going to want a 3D printer table surface catered to you and your printer to maximize both safety and efficiency. So here we’re going to look at some of the best, coolest, and most practical tables and stands for your needs.

Where are the best tables for 3D printers?

If you don’t already have a usable surface, or if you just want to make sure you’re getting the best, you can buy plenty of workbenches, stands, and tables ideal for 3D printers that come with a variety of applications.

From vibration-free fixtures to specifically shaped drawers, finding the 3D printer stand that’s right for you is just a matter of knowing what you need.

It’s worth noting that I do not recommend wheeled 3D printer tables. There are a lot of people who recommend them, but I’m personally paranoid about weak brakes, so I avoid them for hot, electric things like 3D printers. They can also be less stable, and you don’t want anything making your 3D printing environment less sturdy that could have even a minuscule effect on your print’s surface finish.

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Olympia Hardwood Workbench

• Price: Check on Amazon here

Not just one of the strongest affordable benches out there, the Olympia hardwood workbench is also one of the best-looking.

If you like to show off your workstation, then this hardwood desk is definitely something to add to your cart. As well as being very nice to look at, the Olympia works very well as a 3D printer table.

Sturdy enough to hold several times what the average 3D printer weighs, and with enough desktop space to keep any peripheral tools or resins within a safe distance, the Olympia is an ideal 3D printer stand.

Hardwood is also famously easy to clean, so it’s easy to keep dust-free. And for under $200, it’s definitely worth adding to your wish list at least.

Heavy Duty Foldable Workbench

• Price: Check on Amazon here

While the foldable nature of this heavy-duty 3D printer workbench isn’t useful for the not-so-portable machines that are 3D printers — it’s the sturdiness that really counts here.

With a pedal lock on the bottom of the legs, this workbench is a great 3D printer table as it’s more vibration-resistant and stable than many others.

In addition, it comes with a pegboard for handy access to scrapers and other tools without risking leaving them around and cluttering up your space or, worse, getting lost.

Home Office Computer Desk — Also works as a 3D printer table

• Price: Check on Amazon here

Sometimes simplicity is key. Bells and whistles can make for confusing spaces, and while drawers and pegboards do come in handy, sometimes you just want a strong surface to use as a 3D printer stand.

Despite being designed for computers, this home office desk is an easy-to-assemble steel frame that’s deep enough to comfortably fit most 3D printers and still leave enough space for extra tools, gloves, and other pieces.

The extra space can also be used for the desk’s original purpose; a computer to plug directly into your printer.

The lack of drawers does limit storage somewhat, but the wide space below is perfect for storing boxes of filament.

If built-in storage is a must for your 3D printer table, however, there’s also this computer desk with shelves on which you can keep resins and tools. Available in a variety of sizes, you can choose which version of this table suits your 3D printer and/or your available space.

IKEA Lack Tables — They make great 3D printer stands

I wasn’t kidding earlier. 3D printers and IKEA lack tables do actually go together really well.

If like me, you don’t have a lot of space to spare, IKEA Lack tables are sturdy and strong 3D printer tables for smaller models.

Not only are they stylish, but they’re also fairly cheap and don’t take up much space. They can make your 3D printer something of a centerpiece, or be put into the corner so nothing gets in the way.

The empty underside means you can store things safely under them too, and the variety of available colors means you can even pick one out that goes well with your printer.

What Do I Need from a 3D Printer Stand?

Many people will tell you that a table’s a table, and yes, that is true. Provided you don’t go too cheap, an IKEA table for a 3D printer isn’t a completely out-there idea.

While standard benches or desks may work well enough as 3D printer tables, there are some things you’ll want to look out for to maximize both safety and efficiency.

Space and Cleanliness

3D printers do require some space around them free of both dust and loose debris. Wood surfaces are perfect as they’re easy to keep clean and won’t get too hot during those long-haul projects.

When working with materials like resin, it may be tempting to keep your 3D printer stand covered at least partially in towel or cloth, but this will increase the risk of fires should anything go wrong. Let’s face it, any workstation is going to get stained eventually.

Even if you have a 3D printer with an enclosure, the space around it still needs to be clean to ensure proper ventilation and cleaner air around your workspace. Dust gets kicked up easily as it is without a working machine in the mix.

Stability

You wouldn’t put a baby in a wobbly high chair, and you wouldn’t ride a roller coaster with a broken safety bar. So definitely don’t put your 3D printer on an unstable surface.

Any table or stand for a 3D printer needs to be stable and capable of handling the printer’s weight.

Not only will this protect your likely expensive equipment from hitting the floor from 3ft up, but a sturdy 3D printer table will also mean that things won’t go crashing down mid-print. A working machine carries plenty of risks as it is, the last thing you want is a stand that might collapse while printing, which is an extreme fire hazard.

As well as sturdiness, shock absorption is also important to lengthen the shelf-life (pun intended ?) of your workspace. While there are vibration-free tables out there, simply tightening the screws and level-checking from time to time should be enough.

A simple shake test to check for wobble is usually fine, but also make sure your table can take the weight of your 3D printer. Some are heavier than others, and not all stands are created equal, so just make sure you’ve got a strong surface that doesn’t buckle under your printer’s weight and you should be good to go!

Practicality

A clean and sturdy surface will make for a safe 3D printer table, but there’s nothing wrong with some extra additions to make your work more efficient.

If your 3D printer needs to be connected directly to your computer, installing hooks under the table to hold the wires will both clean up your work space and reduce the risk of tripping.

Filament and material storage is also good. If you have your 3D printer in a cool and dry place – like a garage – then it’s handy to have a 3D printer stand or desk with enough space to store your filaments makes for a more efficient workspace.

Provided you have enough space, desktop storage for resin, gloves, scrapers, and any other tools will make the whole printing to post-processing much smoother by keeping all necessary components in easy reach. Digging through a toolbox or disorganized drawers (which many of us are guilty of having) is never a fun job, and built-in slots or holders for your tools is a great way to cut out all the rifling.

For other tools that can come in handy, read our guide to 3D printer accessories

That’s why I’ve decided to share the best Ender 5 Pro upgrades I’ve found from my 2 – 3 years using the printer.

I’d recommend most casual users add a new build plate for their first upgrade. The Creality flexible PEI build plate has made my prints more consistent, with better first-layer adhesion and scraper-free removal.

Makers who want to print with more materials should prioritize E3D’s V6 hot-end upgrade, which will let you print at the temperatures that PETG, PC, and nylon demand.

Those are my top two picks – but there are a ton of Ender 5 Pro upgrades that will improve the quality of your prints, as well as convenience add-ons to make your time with the printer more enjoyable.

This guide will share my recommendations for the upgrades I’ve personally found most useful – both paid and (more or less) free, 3D printed modifications.

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Paid Ender 5 Pro Upgrades

Ender 5 Pro Build Plate Upgrades

• Compatibility: Ender 5, Ender 5 Pro, Ender 5 Plus
• Price: $20-$25

Swapping out the stock Pro build plate is one of the most cost-effective Ender 5 Pro upgrades you can make.

Doing so improves first-layer adhesion – the first step to a successful print – opening the door to better performance with more demanding filament types. A better build plate also makes print removal a lot easier.

While there are numerous third-party options, Creality has done well to offer a good selection of in-house developed Ender 5 Pro build plate upgrades.

PEI-Coated Build Plate

The Creality flexible PEI build plate is a popular option that will set you back a reasonable $25.

The PEI surface has excellent adhesive properties and better first-layer adhesion compared to the stock plate, so there’s no need to rely on additional glue, tape, and the like.

The plate’s spring steel base attaches to the Ender 5 Pro’s magnetic bed, removing the need for clips, making it one of the easiest Ender 5 Pro upgrades to install.

Creality’s plate can handle temperatures up to 200°C and boasts well-distributed temperature stability. The build plate’s flexible properties allow scraper-less print removal; simply bend the plate, and prints pop off.

It’s a solid pick for PLA, ABS, PETG, and TPU printing.

Tempered Glass Build Plate

Creality’s Tempered Glass Build Plate is another popular option.

It’s made of tempered, strengthened glass with carbon and silicone thrown in for good measure, allowing it to handle temperatures up to 400°C.

The glass bed is compatible with virtually every filament type out there, with notably good PLA performance. Still, a bit of adhesive help, like tape or glue, for more challenging materials like ABS is often needed. 

The smooth finish makes it a top pick for makers who prefer a clean underside for their prints and don’t mind drafting in a handful of clips to keep the build plate in place. Expect to pay under $20 for Creality’s Tempered Glass Build Plate.

Ender 5 Pro Enclosure Upgrades

• Compatibility: Ender 5, Ender 5 Pro, Ender 5 Plus
• Price: $80-$90

If you plan on printing ABS or other materials sensitive to ambient temperature fluctuations, an enclosure is a must-have upgrade.

Without one more challenging filament types are likely to warp due to the open-air design of the Ender 5 Pro.

While you can piece together your own DIY solution and potentially cut costs, Creality conveniently offers its own manufactured solution designed to fit the Ender 5, Ender 5 Pro, and Ender 5 Plus.

Easily assembled and storable, the Creality enclosure consists of a flame-retardant, aluminum-lined tent that sits atop an iron pipe support frame.

It features a see-through window for print monitoring and a large zipped front door to access the printer.

The enclosure is designed to maintain a stable internal temperature and protect against drafts.

Additional benefits include protecting your Ender 5 Pro from airborne debris like dust. It’s the best Ender 5 enclosure I’ve found, and also provides a good level of noise dampening (helpful if you’re running overnight print at home).

Ender 5 Pro Auto-Bed Leveling Upgrades

• Compatibility: Ender 5 Pro
• Price: $40-$50

Although bed leveling is an unavoidable and necessary part of 3D printing, you can remove much of the difficulty and tedium by upgrading to automatic bed leveling.

Antclabs’ BL Touch sensor is a popular option, but Creality also has its own, cheaper CR Touch equivalent.

Both are compatible with the Ender 5 Pro.

Although the setup isn’t as straightforward as installing other Ender 5 Pro upgrades, the process is suitable for even those with little DIY 3D printer modification experience.

The BL Touch and CR Touch come in kits consisting of the required mounting brackets, cabling, and screws.

Ender 5 Pro Extruder Upgrades

• Compatibility: Ender 5, Ender 5 Pro, Ender 5 Plus
• Price: $50-$60

If you plan on printing with flexible filament like TPU, we highly recommend an Ender 5 Pro extruder upgrade.

An extruder with a shortened and tighter filament path ensures flexible filament doesn’t bend or jam, one of the major issues owners encounter with the stock Ender 5 Pro’s Bowden system.

E3D’s Titan extruder is among the most popular options and comes from a company with an established reputation for producing quality parts.

It’s a rugged but compact and lightweight extruder that allows you to use the Ender 5 Pro’s existing Bowden tubing with a simple adapter or shift to a direct drive system.

The latter involves a little more leg work and additional components, but significantly improves the Ender 5 Pro flexible prints.

Ender 5 Pro Hot End Upgrades

• Compatibility: Ender 5, Ender 5 Pro, Ender 5 Plus
• Price: $55-$60

For makers that want to dabble with more exotic filament than standard ABS and PLA, upgrading the Ender 5 Pro with a hot end capable of higher temperature opens the door to materials like PETG, PC, and Nylon.

E3D’s V6 is a solid pick with a loyal horde of adopters who are more than willing to sing its praises.

It features an all-metal design and can reach temperatures up to 300°C.

The precision heat break ensures better control over filament flow while enhancing retraction responsiveness, reducing potential oozing, and fixing stringing problems.

Ender 5 Pro Nozzle Upgrades

• Compatibility: Ender 5, Ender 5 Pro, Ender 5 Plus
• Price: $15-$20

Alongside an extruder upgrade, beefing up the Ender 5 Pro with a brand new nozzle can do wonders when working with abrasive filaments or as a way of extending the gap between nozzle replacements.

E3D’s hardened steel V6 nozzle and Micro Swiss’ A1 hardened steel plated nozzle are both excellent picks, suitable for materials like metal-fill, wood-fill, carbon-fiber fill, NylonX, and other specialist abrasive filament types.

Ender 5 Pro SD Card Extension Upgrades

• Compatibility: Ender 5, Ender 5 Pro, Ender 5 Plus
• Price: $15

More a convenience upgrade than a performance mod, an SD Card extension can tweak the Ender 5 Pro to accept full-sized SD Cards rather than the easily lost and hard to manipulate micro SD Cards. 

Creality has its own extension cable that plugs directly into the Ender 5 Pro SD Card slot with a ribbon leading to a standard SD Card slot.

The cabling can be a little unsightly and break the Ender 5 Pro’s aesthetic, but there are clever owner-made solutions to tuck it away, as we’ll see in the next section.

Free 3D Printed Ender 5 Pro Upgrades

Ender 5 Bed Support

To ward off any unwanted build platform movement or shifting, we recommend installing bed supports to add extra rigidity and improve printing performance.

The general format is two rigid support arms that sit below the platform. 

We particularly like Raggio’s version. To install the bed supports, you’ll need no more than a handful of zip ties for an extra snug fit, as the arms are designed to friction fit with the bed screws.

Bed Wire Strain Relief

Due to how the Ender 5 Pro is designed, the bed wiring is unsupported and prone to wear and tear as they connect and rub with the printer when the bed moves. 

To avoid fraying the cables and prevent malfunctions, or worse, a fire hazard, we recommend installing a bed strain relief add-on to support the cabling.

This bed strain relief model by grizzlyeric stands out for offering a friction fit instead of having to source a bolt. 

Extruder Wire Strain Relief

Much like the bed wires, the Ender 5 Pro’s extruder wiring is left to dangle with little support. It tends to rub against the printhead mount. In time, the cables can fray, causing all manner of issues. 

Installing a 3D printed extruder wire strain relief, such as this one by kawi63603, is an elegant way to ward off any potential problems.

It’s a small change, but it could save maintenance headaches and costs in the long run.

Tool Holder

Though not a necessary upgrade, a tool holder can tidy up the workspace around the Ender 5 Pro and offer easy access to your most-used accessories.

Thingiverse contributor rempel’s Ender 5 tool holder features a cutter holder, holes for Allen keys, a spot for a screwdriver, space for spanners, a spatula holder, and a scraper holder, all in a compact add-on that mounts directly onto the Ender 5 Pro’s frame.

Filament Guide

Bowden systems are notoriously prone to causing all kinds of trouble for the filament as it feeds into the extruder, especially flexibles which tend to bend, clog, and snap.

The Ender 5 Pro’s design means the filament has very little support before the extruder. A 3D printed filament guide is a must-have upgrade to give your filament a fighting chance.

D_jespersen, a prolific Ender 5 Thingiverse contributor, has come up with a simple but elegant solution that you can more or less 3D print yourself.

You’ll need some hardware and fittings to get it mounted, but once the installation is done, the guide will drastically reduce the amount of extruder-related problems.

Cooling Duct

If cooling is causing you warping and curling headaches, installing a cooling duct can significantly increase overall print quality.

McGybeer’s version sits below the printhead fan and redirects air to the printed filament while avoiding the nozzle for quick evacuation of hot air.

It’s compact, light, and mounts using the existing fan screws on the Ender 5 Pro.

Camera Mount

Another of the more optional Ender 5 Pro upgrades, an Ender 5 Pro camera mount is a handy add-on if you need to monitor prints remotely.

It mounts to Ender 5 Pro’s frame with 4mm bolts and T-nuts and pretty much does what it says on the tin. It’s designed for light cameras like the magnetic base Wyze and other low-cost, heavy-duty models.

Thanks to Thingiverse contributor FrogmanDave for the model.

SD Card/USB Holder

As any seasoned 3D printer will tell you, part of the hobby involves amassing a catalog of SD Cards and USB sticks.

To help you sort through these, keep them safe, and add a bit of quality-of-life sheen to your Ender 5 Pro, a dedicated SD Card/Holder is a great upgrade.

We particularly like Pugwash’s Thingiverse version as it’s built to friction sit in the printer’s V-Slot perfectly, a novel way to use the space and fill a gap that all too often attracts bits of stray filament.

Multiple versions are available with different SD, micro SD, and USB slot combinations to suit your needs.

If you’ve installed an SD Card extension, there’s also another option designed to house the cabling and sit on top of the Ender 5 Pro’s SD Card slot. It also features an Ender logo, so you’ll be keeping the printer’s branding intact with this one.

You can grab it here on Thingiverse, courtesy of maker BoothyBoothy.

FAQs

If you enjoyed this article, check our other Ender 5 guides to get some more inspiration:

• What are the Top Ender 5 Plus Upgrades?
• Best Ender 3 S1 Upgrades
• My Favorite Ender 5 Enclosures
• Ender 3 vs Ender 5 – Which is Right for You?
• Check the best Ender 3 mods here

But for most makers – using PLA and wanting a balance between speed and quality – I recommend 50 – 80 mm/s for your Ender 3 speed settings.

The Ender 3 can achieve a maximum print speed of around 200mm/s – but that’s only sustainable for very specific prints!

In this guide, I’ll discuss the best Ender 3 print speed settings I’ve found for all the main filaments, including:

• ABS – 40 – 60 mm/s
• TPU – 10 – 30 mm/s
• PETG – 20 – 40 mm/s

I’ll also explain the differences between the ideal settings for V2 and Pro variants of the Ender 3, too.

For clarity, we’ll focus exclusively on print speed as it appears in slicing software, measured in mm, and representing how much filament the Ender 3 can deposit for every second of printing.

Ender 3 Print Speed Settings For Different Filament Types

The factor that most impacts the Ender 3 print speed is the type of filament used.

Depending on the filament, the settings required are vastly different. We have a dedicated article that dives into the intricacies of the best Ender 3 filament for those wanting a more in-depth look. 

Below, you’ll find a brief breakdown of the best speed settings for the four most popular Ender 3 filament types – PLA, ABS, TPU, and PETG.

Ender 3 PLA Print Speed

If you’re just starting your 3D printing, PLA is likely your first port of call.

The Ender 3 shines brightest when printing this plant-based filament. Models, household items, figurines, toys, printer parts/mods – these are viable applications for PLA.

For a solid balance between Ender 3 print speed and print quality, we recommend 50-80 mm/s.

For parts where finish and detail don’t rank as top priorities, feel free to crank up the speed to reduce print times.

Among the Ender 3-compatible filaments, PLA is the least fussy, so don’t hesitate to experiment with higher speeds, especially if you’re not concerned about detail and finish quality.

Here are a few additional settings to get you started:

• Extruder Temperature – 190° to 230°, adjust based on manufacturer recommendations.
• Heated Bed Temperature – 60° should suit most PLA projects.
• Retraction Speed – 6 mm at 25 mm/s. Lowering retraction speed and raising the Ender 3 print speed can lead to stringing, so be wary of pushing these settings too far.

Ender 3 ABS Print Speed

ABS comes second to PLA as the most popular filament to use on an Ender 3.

As ABS is tough and durable (and more flexible than PLA), suitable applications cover all types of parts subject to heavy wear and tear.

Though the stock Ender 3 can print ABS out-of-the-box, an enclosure is a must-have add-on for the best results. Without one, you’ll grapple with warping and cracking issues.

Read our guide to the best Ender 3 enclosures for a few top buyable and DIY homemade recommendations.

Typically, the Ender 3 print speed can be set to around 60 mm/s for ABS, though you may have success dropping as low as 40 to 45 mm/s.

• Extruder Temperature – 220°C to 250°C. Again, refer to manufacturer recommendations.
• Heated Bed Temperature – Around 110°, though this can vary from brand to brand.
• Retraction Speed – 6 mm at 40 mm/s. Adjust as needed to lessen stringing.

Ender 3 TPU Print Speed

Known for its rubber-like properties, TPU offers a solid option for parts subject to heavy forces and impacts, such as sporting goods, phone cases, drive belts, bumpers, and RC car tires. 

Much like ABS, printing TPU with the stock Ender 3 configuration can be quite challenging. But, with a few choice upgrades, namely an all-metal hot end and Capricorn Bowden tubing, it’s possible to pump out excellent quality prints.

Check out our guide to printing TPU on the Ender 3 for more details.

When printing TPU, slow Ender 3 print speed settings are critical. We recommend around 25-30 mm/s at most. For solid first layer adhesion, we recommend as low as 10 mm/s.

Here are a few other recommended settings:

• Extruder Temperature – Typically, 210°C to 230°C. To reduce jamming, clogging, and TPU  sticking to the nozzle, you may want to crank the temperature up a few degrees above the manufacturer’s recommendations.
• Heated Bed Temperature – Unlike PLA and ABS, TPU doesn’t imperatively need a heated bed, but anywhere from 20°C up to 60°C should help the print process move along nicely.
• Retraction Speed – TPU prefers a shorter retraction distance and speed to limit the filament moving about inside the Bowden tube, which can lead to bending and clogging. Aim for 3 mm at 20 mm/s to begin, then move lower, but stop if you hit any signs of stringing.

Ender 3 PETG Print Speed

Borrowing the best properties of PLA and ABS, PETG filament is popular for being easy to print, odorless, durable, and flexible.

It’s the filament of choice for impact and temperature-resistant parts, notably those exposed to heat or the elements. PETG’s smooth finish makes it a solid alternative to PLA for decorative projects.

Though far easier to print than ABS and TPU, PETG can produce stringing issues if printed too quickly. Dial your Ender 3 speed to 40 mm/s. There’s also a marked uptick in quality at even slower speeds, such as 20 mm/s.

• Extruder Temperature – Manufacturers usually recommend 220°C to 230°C.
• Heated Bed Temperature – 65°C-70°C give or take a few degrees in each direction. It’s worth experimenting to find the best setting.
• Retraction Speed – The idea here is to reduce the potential for stringing, so we recommend 4 mm at 25 mm/s. Some Ender 3 owners report success with low retraction distances but higher retraction speeds, so feel free to experiment here to see what works best for you.

Ender 3 Print Speed Settings For Different Model/Part Types

The type of model/part also has an impact on Ender 3 print speed. In essence, determining the right speed depends on the level of detail or surface finish quality you’re aiming for.

Detailed Prints

As a general rule, very detailed models with plenty of fine detail require a slow speed.

A higher speed will churn through the print, which doesn’t give the printer enough time to carve out intricacies and small features.

For detailed prints, mainly decorative pieces such as models and figurines, we don’t recommend going any higher than 60 mm/s. Drop as low as you want, but try to find a balance to avoid prints taking days to complete.

3D printing takes long enough at the best of times, so it’s best to exercise restraint when it comes to print speeds.

Larger Prints

Conversely, a higher print speed is entirely reasonable for larger, functional parts where detail and aesthetics aren’t necessary. The same applies to parts with no details, such as large geometric shapes or functional 3D prints with little to no surface features.

Don’t hesitate to up the speed to 80 mm/s or even higher if you aren’t worried about how the print looks. Some Ender 3 owners report decent results at speeds up to 120 mm/s, though the final print invariably includes blemishes, imperfections, and signs of ghosting.

With all this in mind and, in keeping with 3D printing’s DIY roots, we highly recommend experimenting and tinkering with different Ender 3 speed settings to find that sweet spot between quality and speed.

Remember, there’s no perfect answer, and it ultimately comes down to what works best for your needs and projects.

Max Print Speed For All Ender 3 Models

So, how far can you push the Ender 3 print speed? According to official figures provided by Creality, here are the maximum print speeds for each Ender 3 model:

• Ender 3 – 200 mm/s
• Ender 3 Pro – 180 mm/s
• Ender 3 V2 – 180 mm/s
• Ender 3 Max – 100 mm/s
• Ender 3 S1 – 150 mm/s
• Ender 3 S1 Pro – 150 mm/s

It’s worth noting that these Ender 3 max speed values represent an absolute, theoretical cap on print speed, generally referring to Ender 3 travel speed rather than the speed at which filament is deposited. 

As such, we don’t recommend dialing in Ender 3 print settings anywhere close to these maximum limits. Key in a higher value and the firmware will either have a fit or push it back down to the max print speed.

It’s unlikely you’ll ever approach these speeds; if you do, the print quality and finish will suffer as a consequence. These breakneck speeds almost guarantee you’ll bump into a host of adhesion, stringing, ghosting, and layering issues.

For these reasons, the recommended Ender 3 print speed setting is much lower for most print projects at around 50-80 mm/s.

Can You Make Ender 3 Print Faster?

If you want to crank up the print speed on your Ender 3, should keep in mind that if you print too fast, the quality of the print can suffer. When you increase the print speed, you also run the risk of experiencing issues such as layer shifting, under-extrusion, and stringing.

To ensure that your prints come out as intended, it is best to gradually increase the print speed while keeping a close eye on the quality of the print. Make sure to check for any signs of the aforementioned issues as you gradually increase the speed. This way, you can find the maximum speed that your printer can handle without compromising the quality of your prints.

FAQs

If you enjoyed this article, check our other guides to improve your prints:

• The Most Effective 3D Printing Speed Settings for Each Filament
• Ender 3 Retraction Settings: Minimise Stringing for V2 & S1
• How long does it take to 3D print something?
• Best 3D Print Speed Settings for Every Filament

But if you’re looking to expand your Ender 3’s functionality with hardware upgrades – such as automatic bed leveling, thermal runaway protection, and PID tuning – you’ll need to install more specialized firmware.

Firmware like Marlin and Jyers will expand the capability of your device and are easier to install than you might think.

Those are my top two recommendations, but the right firmware for you will depend on the specific changes you’re looking to make.

I’ll explain the particular merits of each to help you make the right choice – including how easy they are to install.

If you happen to own an Ender 3 V2, you’re in luck. A simple microSD card and the requisite files are everything you’ll need to install fresh firmware.

It’s a little more “hands-on” for Ender 3/Pro, but if you follow the steps in this guide, you’ll be able to set it up without any of the beginner mistakes I made the first time around!

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Official Creality Ender 3 Firmware

If you want the most frictionless path to upgrading your Ender 3’s firmware and don’t want to tweak the code, drawing from Creality’s pool of official firmware updates is the way to go. 

Unsurprisingly, these are tuned to suit the Ender 3, meaning you won’t encounter any compatibility issues, and there’s a version for every iteration of the Ender 3. These include the older 8-bit mainboards and the newer 32-bit V4.2.2 and V4.2.7 boards found on the Ender V2.

Over on Creality’s official forum, you’ll find a wealth of firmware versions.

There is all manner available based on your printer and options for specific hardware upgrades such as BL a Touch and a filament runout sensor. You also benefit from thermal runaway protection in the latest Creality firmware, which itself is reason enough to push through an update.

To install on the Ender 3 V2, load the BIN file onto a microSD card and pop it into the mainboard’s microSD card slot.

The process is more involved for the stock Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro. You’ll need to flash a bootloader onto the printer using an Arduino Uno, then upload the new firmware to your printer’s mainboard.

Marlin 2.0

Marlin is an open-source firmware with a long history dating back to the early days of RepRap printers.

It’s used by many of the leading consumer printer manufacturers. Creality uses an altered and customized version for its official firmware.

So what sets it apart from Creality’s official Ender 3 firmware?

Adaptability, features, and self-configuration. If you need to tune the firmware to suit particular upgrades, fix bugs, and fine-tune the real-time coordination of the printer’s active parts, then Marlin 2.0 offers an extra degree of freedom.

PID heater control, linear advance, automatic bed leveling, power loss recovery – these are a taste of the advanced, sophisticated functions Marlin offers to those partial to tinkering their way to higher quality prints.

You can freely toggle features on and off to find the perfect mix for your needs.

Alternatively, there are great pre-configured Ender 3 profiles that you can upload straight to the printer. And, should you stumble, there’s strong community support ready to help you troubleshoot.

It’s compatible with both the older 8-bit Ender 3s along with the newer 32-bit variants, though the installation process differs as we saw above with the official Creality Ender 3 firmware.

TH3D Unified Firmware

TH3D Unified firmware is among the most accessible Ender 3 firmware options out there.

It makes tweaking settings easy while guaranteeing version stability through heavy testing, so you’re unlikely to meet any bugs or problems. Most of its iterations have pre-configured profiles specifically for the Ender 3, all tuned to work from the get-go.

TH3D is based on Marlin 2.0. It bundles in all the firmware’s basic benefits but throws in a few unique features such as:

• PID autotuning
• Power loss print resume
• Preheating for different filament types
• Assisted bed leveling
• Support for E3D V6 hot end upgrades
• Manual mesh leveling support

Much like the other firmware options in our guide, Ender 3 V2 owners have it easy with a simple microSD card upload to the mainboard. Ender 3 and Pro users will need to draft in an Arduino and flash the board with a bootloader before uploading the firmware file.

Klipper

A one-person-developed open-source firmware, Klipper is designed to dramatically boost the printing speed of the Ender 3.

Klipper achieves this by delegating computational duties to a single-board computer such as a Raspberry Pi. The board takes care of the G-Code processing side of things and calculates printer movements.

Doing so introduces more processing power into the mix than you’d get with the Ender 3’s mainboard alone.

With that extra outside SBC help, the Ender 3’s mainboard is left to concentrate exclusively on executing the G-Code commands, resulting in faster and quieter printing thanks to high-precision acceleration physics and machine kinematics-based stepper movements.

Aside from this unique approach, Klipper has a stacked feature set.

These include:

• Smooth pressure advance to reduce ooze
• Input shading to counter vibrations
• Custom programmable macros
• Automatic bed leveling support
• Thermal runaway protection
• Stepper phase end stop algorithm to improve first layer adhesion
• Support for filament sensors

Just to name a few…

It goes without saying that using a Raspberry Pi alongside the printer itself adds another layer of complexity.

In our estimation, Klipper is an advanced option better suited to seasoned tinkerers with experience working with SBCs and happy to configure the firmware themselves.

It’s also worth checking out Fluidd, a bespoke UI for Klipper if you decide to take the plunge.

It’s a lightweight and responsive interface to tame and shape the firmware to your needs. If you’ve never dabbled in similar projects, we highly recommend more beginner-friendly options such as TH3D Unified firmware or Creality’s official Ender 3 firmware.

Jyers

An up-and-coming firmware that’s slowly gaining traction among Ender 3 owners, the Jyers firmware is one to keep an eye on.

It’s based on Marlin 2.0 and is incredibly user-friendly.

Notable features include a revamped Ender 3 menu with manual leveling, Z offset, preheat, change filament menus, labeled error messages, M600 G-Code, PID autotune, and manual mesh leveling.

We can’t recommend it as it stands due to various major bugs hampering an otherwise excellent set of features. However, active development should see these smoothed out before long, at which point Jyers has everything to make it a superior alternative to the official Creality firmware.

If you are nevertheless tempted and don’t mind navigating the bugs, installation follows the usual Arduino Uno bootloader flash and firmware installation for the Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro.

Installing Jyers on the Ender 3 V2 requires no more than a formatted microSD card and the firmware files.

What You’ll Need to Update Your Ender 3 Firmware

Depending on what Ender 3 version you have, you’ll need to make sure you have all the right gear to get started.

Below, you’ll find a breakdown of everything you need if you have an Ender 3, Ender Pro, or the newer Ender 3 V2.

Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro

• Arduino Uno or other microcontroller
• Five female-to-female jumper cables
• One male-to-female jumper cable 
• USB cable
• PC
• Latest version of the firmware you plan to install
• Latest version of Arduino IDE software
• Single-board computer for Klipper
• Micro-USB cable for Klipper

Ender 3 V2

• A clean, formatted microSD card
• Latest version of the firmware you plan to install
• PC
• Unzip program such as WinRAR (optional – only needed if the download comes as a RAR file)
• Microsoft Visual Studio Code (optional – only needed to tweak and modify the firmware’s code)
• Single-board computer for Klipper
• Micro-USB cable for Klipper

Ender 3 S1/S1 Pro

• A clean, microSD card formatted to FAT32
• Latest version of the firmware you plan to install
• PC
• Unzip program such as WinRAR (optional – only needed if the download comes as a RAR file)
• Microsoft Visual Studio Code (optional – only needed to tweak and modify the firmware’s code)

Ender 3 V2 Neo

• A clean, microSD card with a capacity of no more than 8 GB formatted to FAT32
• Latest version of the firmware you plan to install
• PC
• Unzip program such as WinRAR (optional – only needed if the download comes as a RAR file)
• Microsoft Visual Studio Code (optional – only needed to tweak and modify the firmware’s code)

FAQ

If you enjoyed this article, check our other Ender 3 software guides to help get the most from your 3D printer:

• The Best Ender 3 3D Printing Software Overall
• Which Slicer Tool is Best for Ender 3? (Free and Premium)

But, because the Ender 3 range only comes with single extruders as standard, plenty of people (myself included) choose Ender 3 dual extrusion upgrades.

The best Ender 3 dual extruder upgrade for most people will be the Chimera Project. It’s the most straightforward DIY mod to install, offering a great balance between cost and ease of use. You can also opt for a Mosaic Palette 3 for multi-color filament splicing.

Why Upgrade?

It adds the ability to print using more than one filament type at once, allowing multi-color projects and stronger, more reliable prints which require less post-processing.

There’s also the cost difference to take into account. Adding a dual extruder to your Ender 3 is significantly cheaper than simply buying a similar printer with a dual extruder already installed.

Remember – 3D printers with dual extruders as standard are normally around $600, over three times the price of a standard Ender 3.

So, how do you go about fitting your Ender 3 dual extruder? What should you take into account before getting started? And what are the best dual extruders out there for each Ender 3 model?

We’re going to answer all of these questions here.

Ender 3 Dual Extruder Options

The open-source community for the Ender 3 is huge, and there’s no shortage of people out there with cool ideas on how to modify and upgrade Ender 3 printers with laser engravers, improved frame guards, and even advanced touchscreens.

Because of this, it’s understandable to not know off the bat exactly which one is right for you. So here we’re going to look at some of the best and most reliable Ender 3 dual extruder upgrades you can check out today.

Mosaic Palette 3 / Pro

• Price: $599-$799 — Available at Matterhackers here

While technically more of an honorable mention than an actual Ender 3 dual extruder, the Mosaic Palette 3 and Palette 3 Pro are by far the simplest option to use your Ender 3 to make multicolored prints without needing to actively modify your printer.

This is great news if you’re unconfident or otherwise unwilling when it comes to taking tools to your Ender 3, but still want to make prints using different colors and filaments.

The Mosaic Palette models act as automatic switchers, like changing the orientation of a railway line to divert specific trains or uncoupled carriages in different directions. The Mosaic Palettes act as changers that swap between up to eight different filaments per print and automatically manage each one.

The downside is the cost. At around $700, they are not cheap machines. But if you’re not very handy and have the money to spend, this is the most streamlined way to attach what could be described as a ‘multi extruder’ to your Ender 3.

Chimera Project

The Chimera Project, named after the Greek concept of an animal amalgamation rather than an ideological improbability, is the first great example of a DIY dual extruder that was designed for the Ender 4 but is still compatible with all Ender 3 models.

A standard dual extruder that’s quite cheap to produce, the Chimera Project sits on a mount that you will need to print out yourself. While that sounds like extra steps, don’t discount how cool it is to use your 3D printer to make its own modification parts.

The instructions and necessary parts are all included and linked to in very clear detail on the project’s Thingiverse page here.

Safety precautions and recommended hardware are all laid out so even the most humble of beginners will have an easy enough time getting to grips with how it all works.

Regardless of your experience with DIY, this mode you’ll need to get this Ender 3 and 4 dual extruder up and running so long as you maintain caution and follow the instructions.

Cyclops Hot End

The Cyclops Hot End is a spiritual sibling of the Chimera. The two are usable with the same printed mount, and both can alternate between different filament colors and types mid-print. The Cyclops gets its name from the fact that it looks like a single extruder but has all the capabilities of a dual extruder.

As well as standard multi-filament printing, it can also mix filaments together. While it does act like more of a ‘filament management system’ than a standard dual extruder, it still performs all the functions you’d expect.

The instructions and files, along with some hints for building and use, are all found for free here. This Cyclops seems to be a reliable and very simple way to convert your Ender 3 to have a dual extruder, unlike actual cyclopes, whose implied lack of depth perception would likely render them far less menacing than their mythology would have us believe.

Proper Printing’s Dual Extruder Ender 3 Mod

Proper Printing has developed a unique kind of dual extruder that doesn’t require a second servo. Instead, this very interesting and surprisingly clever design relies on a spring mechanism that allows the two extruders to switch use seamlessly by operating like a teeter-totter.

The extruders move in a sort of slanted V shape, with only the active extruder being parallel to the build while the other is slanted to the side while not in use. This allows extruders to be used with the same servo instead of either one spending any time-wasting space by simply waiting their turn.

This minimizes the amount of build volume lost by conserving space as well as parts in its design.

Known internally as ‘The Rocker’ and available as printable files for only $3 on their website here, it’s an absolute steal for something no Ender user should go without.

While it is said to work on any standard Ender 3 model (that is, out of the box and since unmodified) it’s unclear as to whether it will function well with other 3D printers or more modern Creality Ender models.

Though since the $3 is for the files and instructions, you’re free to experiment and tweak to see if The Rocker does work with other 3D printers provided you’re confident and techy enough to do so.

You can even modify the design yourself if it doesn’t work right away with the model you have in mind, such is the beauty of mods!

Upgrading Your Ender 3 To a Dual Extruder: Pros and Cons

Upgrading your Ender 3 with a dual extruder may seem like a no-brainer. One is more than two, and therefore better. But, like most things relating to Ender 3 upgrades printers, it’s not quite as simple as it appears.

Dual extruders come with a host of benefits, but that’s not to say there aren’t drawbacks. While not a one-way modification (meaning you can go back to a single extruder if you want), installing an Ender 3 dual extruder only to then realize it wasn’t worth the hassle will be a waste of time, money, and effort on your part.

Equipping your Ender 3 with a dual extruder comes with some negative effects that, depending on your desired uses, may not be worth the effort after all. So be sure to keep these points in mind before deciding whether or not to break out your toolbox.

Pros

• Print with more than one filament/filament type at once.
• Multicolored prints are far easier and take less time because you won’t need to constantly switch your filaments mid-print.
• You can reinforce your prints with dissolvable filaments like HIPS and PVA for better surface finishes.
• Upgrading/modifying single extruder printers is often cheaper than buying dual extruder printers.

Cons

• Dual extruders are unwieldy and difficult for beginners to handle and manage.
• Unnecessary if you’re happy enough printing in one color.
• Far more maintenance, care, and cleaning are required to keep a dual extruder clean and functioning properly.
• Lower build area volume due to the larger extruder requiring more space.

Essentially, a dual extruder requires a lot more work and maintenance to use reliably than a single extruder. If you’ve got your sights on fortified and/or multicolored prints, then upgrading your Ender 3 with a dual extruder is a fantastic idea.

On the other hand, if you’re happy with monochrome prints or are otherwise not confident you could handle the upkeep, it might be best to stay with a single extruder.

However, if you’re willing to put in the work and are still convinced you want a dual extruder on your Ender 3 despite these cons, then we’re here to help you move forward.

Before Installing a Dual Extruder on Your Ender 3

Ender 3 models are equipped with single extruders by default. However, as we’ve seen with your options for adding laser engravers, they are highly modifiable machines. This means that, with enough know-how and effort, you can upgrade your Ender 3 with a dual extruder.

Be Safe and Sure!

There is no official dual extruder extension for the Ender 3, so you’ll need to get your DIY cap on. Just remember that you’ll be dealing with mechanical parts that are designed to get extremely hot, so make sure everything is switched off and unplugged before you begin.

In addition, remember that you’re working with moving mechanical parts, and will be manipulating them in ways for which they weren’t designed, like adding an extender cable to a standard outlet. So take the greatest of care to protect yourself and your machine while you work. Always double-check your equipment and instructions before beginning so you can move forward as confidently and safely as possible.

Modifiable as the Ender 3 is, be sure you take great care in upgrading yours. Removing and replacing parts must be done with care to ensure each piece functions correctly. An improperly installed extruder will back up or fail mid-print, which increases the risk of blockages, failures, and even fires.

Be Ready to Roll Up Your Sleeves

Any third-party modification to a device will require effort and know-how beyond what you’ll find instructions for in the box. User-guided, well-explained modifications will be much more reliable than selecting any old mod at random, but all will require at least some work on your end.

These upgrades are more often than not far more complicated than buying a new part and screwing it in, so be sure to read instructions carefully and carry out tests before you really put your new mod to use. Attention to detail and cautious handiwork are musts before you’re ready to plug in and get printing.

The main difficulty in installing your own dual extruder on an Ender 3 or any 3D printer is the requirement of an extra servo. While this isn’t the case for all dual extruders (we’ll get to that later) it is certainly the case for most, and the correct installation of said servo is very important and quite finicky.

FAQs

Other articles you may be interested in:

• Ender 3 vs Ender 3 V2 vs Ender 3 Pro vs Ender 3 Max: Compared
• Ender 3 vs Ender 5
• Ender 3 Hot End Upgrades
• The Best Direct Drive Upgrades for Ender 3